For centuries, the Spanish colonizers considered western Patagonia with its thick forests, fjords, glaciers and high mountain ranges – sparsely inhabited by native Kawésqar people – too remote and difficult to reach. It wasn't until the early 20th century, only a little over 100 years ago, that the first colonial explorations into the area were being made. Which also marked the tragic demise of indigenous people.
These modern day settlers relied on rough trails through the mountains on their explorations south. This route still exists and is called "La Ruta de los Pioneros" – the route of the pioneers.
It wasn't until 1997 that Villa O’Higgins, the only village in this remote region was connected to Chile's continous road network. The ~500 inhabitant settlement now marks the southern terminus of the famous Carretera Austral.
It's early fall. With a few good friends we've made in Patagonia, Helena and I set out to hike the ~100km route through remote patagonian backcountry to experience the path of the pioneers from 100 years ago.
From Villa O’Higgins it’s 1 hour by car to Lago Christie. The start of our hike. From here on the only way forward is by horse or by foot. Half a day on narrow and partly overgrown trail later, we come across some very simple wooden buildings. The man who lives here in complete solitude is Don Ruben. He has been living here as a Gaucho for his entire live.
We’re wet from rain and mud and Don Ruben immediately invites us into his kitchen. A typical patagonian fireplace not only provides some very welcome warmth – but also keeps a pot of water hot for mate at all times. And while we share stories over tea, I’m able to take some portraits of a man, who’s been living in Patagonian solitude for all his life. There is only two decades old photos hanging on the wall of his kitchen. One show’s him with his father. Another shows him as a young man. What a contrast to the millions of photos we amass in our phones…
At some point though we have to leave. Don Ruben guides us across his land and directs us in the direction where the old Ruta de los Pioneros continues and we’re out in the cold and rain again.
A week later, after our return to Puerto Guadal, fellow photographer & mountaineer Lito Flores (I’ll write another post about the encounter with him soon) kindly lets me use his studio to print the two portraits on beautiful, matte fine-art paper.
One of the friends from our group has plans to do the Ruta de los Pioneros again the following year and promises to hand over the two prints to Don Ruben. Who knows, maybe there are two more photos hanging on the wall of his kitchen by now…
